Longman and Eagle Corned Beef and Cabbage

At Longman & Eagle in Chicago, Jared Wentworth makes beef-tongue hash with black truffles.

Credit... Peter Wynn Thompson for The New York Times

"I WOULD never call myself a meat-and-potatoes guy," said Robert Newton, the chef at Seersucker in Brooklyn, where the state pork hash has a devoted following. "Simply I actually like hash."

Mod meat-and-potatoes lovers, meet hash, your new all-time friend. Friendly to home cooks and on the upswing with chefs, who make it from corned beef, pastrami, Texas charcoal-broil, leftover prime number rib, lamb necks or duck tongues, hash is thrillingly piece of cake to cook and deeply satisfying to eat. (Especially at this time of year, with holiday feasts receding in the rear-view mirror and leftovers lurking in the fridge.)

The essence of hash is meat that'due south already cooked, potatoes for starch and usually onions for sugariness. A couple of loose-yolked eggs on elevation provide a sauce that brings all the flavors together.

As meat has become larded with high status, and as diner food is reinvented with culinary credibility, hash is coming up in the world.

Image

Credit... Peter Wynn Thompson for The New York Times

Some purists consider even garlic and parsley as well racy for a proudly plain dish, only chefs are becoming dauntless, calculation spice and fume to pitch the dish a little higher on the palate.

For the gussied-up red flannel hash at Serpentine in San Francisco, the meat-and-potatoes motif is combined with a beets-and-horseradish element to make a zingy, sweet and bawdy hash. At the off-cut specialist Lazy Ox Canteen in Los Angeles, lamb neck hash with quinoa and a jidori egg (a fresh, local gratuitous-range variety) is on the menu. At Smoke in Dallas, classic Texas barbecued brisket is shredded, mixed with onions and roasted green chilies, and served on a bed of crunchy corn-breadstuff chunks that stand in for potatoes. (Hot sauce on the side is a must.)

Classic American corned-beefiness hash adult in New England, a breakfast based on leftovers from endless boiled dinners of beef, cabbage, potatoes and onions. Older Midwestern recipes call for binding the hash together with a white sauce of cooked flour, perchance a clue as to why the dish is remembered with piddling fondness in those parts. And the canned version that Americans have become accustomed to is strange and sugary, with a meat texture that should non be in nature.

Plain corned-beef hash, in the right easily, can be a thing of beauty. The New York chef Declan Cass, a native of County Kilkenny in Republic of ireland, says that he hasn't changed his recipe in whatever particular since he arrived here 20 years ago. "Why would I?" he said, with mystification.

Paradigm

Credit... Evan Sung for The New York Times

At his modest eatery Stove, on an equally modest block of Astoria, Queens, Mr. Cass makes a hash that many consider the best in New York, a title that he wears lightly. It's uncomplicated, he says: 2 kinds of boiled potatoes, diced and mashed. Caramelized onions, present in two forms: sliced, and basis. Business firm-corned beefiness, purpose-made for the dish. The whole of it mixed together on Saturday dark, ready for Dominicus forenoon's brunch rush. "Season it up and permit it sit down, that'south the simply secret," he said.

The final cooking step is turning the meat and potatoes and onions together in the pan (or on a griddle), pressing down to brand the edges of everything well-baked up. The ingredients must be jumbled together — made a hash of. If the ingredients are coerced into tidy carve up circles, well, that's not hash. (Chefliness can get too far).

At Northern Spy Food Company in the Eastward Village, the chef Nathan Foot makes a elementary only perfect version: his corned beef is spiked with double the usual amount of pickling spices. Even better, he cooks the potatoes destined for hash in oil, not water, so that they never dry out in the pan and dark-brown beautifully without scorching.

At Seersucker, Mr. Newton saves all the savory juices from roasting a whole pork shoulder for his hash. "We take the pan juices and pour all that dear back over the meat," he said. "Then it hangs out until brunch the side by side solar day." The pan juices are more than ordinary, since Mr. Newton was trained to deploy the Indian spice arsenal at Tabla, and he borrowed from the pastrami tradition in making a toasty, coriander-and-pepper chaff for the meat that trickles down into the flavor of the juices. Sudden blasts of spice make the hash interesting; exciting, even. Served with nippy dandelion greens, information technology tastes like a Southern archetype.

Image

Credit... Sabra Krock for The New York Times

"When I was footling, corned-beef hash was what we called midnight breakfast, ever a care for," said Katharine Kagel, the chef and owner of Cafe Pasqual's in Santa Fe, N.One thousand., a national landmark for breakfast lovers. Ms. Kagel is not a trained chef, but a quality-mad food lover who opened Cafe Pasqual'south in 1979 and has run it since, e'er with corned-beef hash on the bill of fare.

At the turn of the 20th century, Ms. Kagel said, her maternal grandfather was the finest butcher in Sacramento ("My mother's side is all most meat," she said). Her paternal grandparents sold produce from a stall at the Housewives Marketplace in Oakland, Calif., when it served equally a decorated railroad distribution betoken for ingredients headed to San Francisco.

"Those are every bit good qualifications for hash as any I tin think of," said Ms. Kagel, who has refined recipes for both corned-beefiness and smoked-trout versions at her restaurant. In her view, the most important things about hash-making are keeping the meat moist (in its cooking juices, or liquid, if possible) and waiting until the potatoes are completely cool before grating them.

In his abode-cooking book "Advertizement Hoc at Domicile," the surgically precise chef Thomas Keller gives instructions for cooking onions ideally for hash: melted but not mush, sweet but not stringy. His meat of choice is salary, a nice shortcut for home cooks who may non have a haunch of beef around.

The explosive, peppery pastrami hash at the Carnegie Deli in New York is a classic, and so is the prime-rib hash at Keens Steakhouse, which is spiked with Worcestershire and ketchup. When serious chefs get their hands on the dish, the fabled creations often turn up at brunch, when a heavy, arteries-be-damned hash of fatty meat, butter-cooked potatoes and fried eggs may be proudly served even at upscale restaurants.

For the brunch menu at Hecho en Dumbo in the East Village, the chef Danny Mena invented a chorizo-spiked version of a Spanish icon: huevos estrellados Lucio, a tumble of eggs and French fries made famous at Casa Lucio in Madrid. "Our version is pretty greasy, in a good way, but even so it doesn't do justice to the original," Mr. Mena said.

In an e-mail from Valladolid, Spain, Jesús Miguel García Martín, a food writer who blogs in Spanish at eladerezo.com, wrote that in the original dish, the eggs are barely cooked — just fried a few seconds on each side in plenty of hot olive oil, then plopped on top of hot, greasy French chips. One time the dish is placed in front of the client, two forks are used to break the yolks and coat the fries in their deliciousness.

"Information technology's like a deconstructed tortilla," Mr. Mena said, referring to the Spanish tapa of scrambled eggs layered with potatoes. It is also, in his meaty, spicy New York version, very much a hash.

Longman & Hawkeye in Chicago, which GQ's eatery critic, Alan Richman, termed a "neo-flophouse," serves an elegant, tidy appetizer of beefiness tongue and black truffle hash. It is fabricated with tiny diced potatoes cooked in duck fat, and topped with a duck egg. In lieu of onions, shallots are roasted overnight at low heat, bathed in antiseptic butter.

"Hash may exist a flophouse dish," best-selling the eatery's chef, Jared Wentworth. "But hey, this is the simply flophouse in the globe with a Michelin star."

sanchezfition72.blogspot.com

Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/05/dining/05hash.html

0 Response to "Longman and Eagle Corned Beef and Cabbage"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel